The
Academy kit is reasonably well detailed, but I didn't even bothered
with ejection pin marks. All I did was to paint the interior, add some
weathering and a lot of dirt on the floor. The kit's decals add much
to the realism too, particularly the many placards, even though almost
nothing will be quite visible with the crew onboard:
Fast
forward a few months and the model was finished, except for the figures
and the base. Let me show you some photos of the finished model and
then I'll go back to cover the details up close (click for a larger image):
The
assembly of the model went pretty fast. All I had to add were more
realistic weld fillets along the joints using stretched sprue and
liquid cement. The color is my own mix of Tamiya paints starting with
the XF-13 J.A. Green and
adding yellow, green, and grey. In the end I think I just turned 360
degrees and arrived at the same XF-13... Anyway, this is a perfect
start for a Vietnam era olive green, and there are plenty color photos
showing that. One thing that I've been doing more and more in my recent
models is to add X-22 Gloss Clear
to Tamiya paints. This not only results a satin finish to the model -
sometimes sparing a clear coat preparatory for the decals, but also
leaves a better surface to washes, filters and all the weathering that
follow.
Once the main color was dry, I added a bit of white to
make a lighter tone and highlighted several panels. This worked as a
regular fading, and also as an initial dusting. The next step was to
use the sponge method to create paint chipping on the steel parts. I
said steel parts, for the M113 hull was made of Aluminum and wouldn't
oxidize as dark as the steel. More on that later.
One
of the aspects that I like in Vietnam vehicles is the messy disposition
of things spread out all over the vehicle. I tried to replicate some of
them, following what I saw in the photos. First, canvas belts were
tightly tied around the commander cupola. They were made with painted
Tamiya tape, pieces of thin plastic and photoetched buckles.
Another
item that I saw repeatedly in wartime photos of ACAVs were bandoliers
hanging on the M-60 shields. Crews used them to store granades, extra
ammo, cigarettes, magazines, bottles, you name it. I thought it would
be a learning challenge to scratchbuilt one, which I did using lead
foil. Interestingly, I made it right in my first try and really liked
the process and the final result. I left my bandolier with empty
pockets, though.
And since I was at it, I also scratchbuilt smoke and fragmentation granades and hanged them along the belts. The
ammo belts came from Academy and Dragon gun sets. The later is more
detailed but molded in a very brittle plastic, so I had some trouble to
pose it draped over the right side M60 shield. Crews used to do it
sometimes to keep rounds dry...
The .50 cal MG
assembly was added only at the end, but an eagle eye will note the
tracer rounds in the ammo box. It also came from the Academy gun set:
At
this point I was really pushing myself to make the hull look
realistically busy. Extra fuel/water cans were added to the rear left
mudguard, again following photos. I tied them with lead strips and
photoetched buckles. A water can was marked with a red tape, simulated
by airbrushing not well thinned GSI red paint. This creates a maleable
layer of paint, so when I pressed my fingers around the can, the red
tape ended up looking like it was stretched.
A brass chain was
laid on the back of the vehicle, painted and slightly rusted with
Rustall. The pickaxe head is from the kit, but I made a new wooden
handle using stretched sprue:
Still
trying to make things look busy, I replaced the kit's top hatch opening
cord (part B15) by a real metal chain encapsulated by a length of wire
insulation. I think it looks now more natural than the kit part:
Other
items added included a pair of C-ration boxes, tied on the top of the
rear hull. These were laser printed in light brown paper, weathered,
folded and glued in place. Extra ammo boxes were glued beside the
commander cupola, as well as rolls of tying belts. Remember to paint these things in varied colors, ranging from olive drab or kakhi to olive green:
Another
interesting find in photos of M113s in action are the usual extra wheel
hanging on the sides of the hull. Evidently this was an extra
precaution crews adopted to increase the armor protection, but at times
also to conceal the white star, an excellent aiming point to the enemy
(many M113 had their insignias overpainted in black or olive drab in
Vietnam):
The interesting thing is that these wheels were usually hand
by ropes, and would swing back and forth during the ride. Whenever the
metal rim of the wheel scratched the hull wall, it would leave metalic
arc-shaped marks, while the outer rubber band would smudge the wall
with black arcs. I reproduced the effect using silver pencil
and charcoal pencil over a drafting template (do the math to find where the center of the arc is!):
Another
signature of the M113 in Vietnam were the heavily scratched hull
sides. These marks appear in a number of patterns, and I can only guess
that most of them are the result of dense vegetation scrapping the
factory paint. Now, mind you, these scratches may be very long - in
some cases running all the way along the hull side - but most of
the time they seem to be concentrated on the front and rear sides -
check these extreme examples:
I simulated the effect in three ways: (a) running a
hard bristle scrubber to produce more light scratches; (b) using gray
pencils to simulate old scratches, and (c) silver pencils to simulate
recent scratches. Don't go overboard, not everything you see in the
photos looks nice in scale!
You will also note that one wheel
on each side is moved out of the horizontal, I mean, not aligned with
the other wheels. This was done purposely, as the diorama road will not
be perfectly flat. These little changes make things look more natural
in your model. Click to enlarge:
Now
the fun part. Early in this project I saw several photos
showing M113s with a whole list of stuff on top of it, but many
seemed to carry a rolle fence and a set of poles. These fences
(called cyclone fences) were
mounted with the poles around the vehicle to force premature detonation
of RPGs (rocket propelled granades) whenever the crew had to spend the
night in the field:
With time, these accessories almost became a mandatory item in the cargo load of most M113s... and it shows in the photos:
To
simulate a fence was the easy part, in my case: I just painted and
weathered a length of Tulle fabric, rolled it and attached it to the
front hull using lead belts decorated with photoetched buckles. The
poles are L shaped plastic beams that I had in my stash, slightly bent,
painted and dirtied.
The difficult part was to add a realistic
shovel and an axe. These were also mandatory items, as the practice
back then was to dig a dugout and then park the vehicle over them,
forming a bunker to sleep. I don't remember if the shovel came
with the kit or from my spares box...
If
you look closely at the flotation cells you will note that I added a
few dents. They were very thin boxes prone to damaging under the
slightest hit (click to enlarge)...
The
mudguards were also removed, as they were not very useful in combat. A
number of other smaller details were added, too... (click to
enlarge):
I
forgot to mention that the decals came from the kit, but I had to
retouch some of them due to the lack of register. Interestinly, the
basic color was semi-gloss, but after applying a brush coat of light
earth pigment heavily diluted in water over the whole vehicle, plus the
several weathering layers, it gradually became flat, with a few
variations and shiny spots here and there, just like the real thing
(click to enlarge):
Once
everything was in place, I added wet pigments from True Earth line.
These are actually an acrylic paint with texture, so there is no need
to fixing them. On the top of the M113, I used dry pigments of light
and dark earth colors, and smudged the effect wherever I found it too
exagerated. I could go further, afterall there are plenty of photos
showing how filthy the top of an APC could be, but like I said before,
not everything in real life looks good in scale.
The
last weathering step was to splash diluted pigments around the lower
hull and wheels, concentrating the effect on the rear door and
mudguards. This was done by blowing a pigment loaded brush with an
airbrush. This technique is quite effective, just don't go overboard
like many models I have seen lately.
The driver mirrors were not
installed in the photos, but I'll add them once the diorama base
starts. The .50 cal machine gun mount is just test fitted and will be
glued only once the commander figure is cemented in place.
Here are a few glamour photos before I start to work on its base (click to enlarge):
Moving
on to the base, I used several types of material to produce ground
vegetation, tall and short grass, and small trees representing what I
was able to find regarding photos of Loc Ninh area. The 11th ACR
took part in several fiercy battles nearby during 1969-70. Details of
these operations can be found in the following references:
- E.J. Chesney, The 11th Armored Cavalry Regiment in Vietnam, January 1969 through June 1970, Master thesis, Faculty of U.S. Army Command and General Staff College, Ft. Leavenworth, 2002.
- The Battle of Binh Long Province, August 1969.
1st Cavalry Division, 14th Military History Detachment, Department of
the Army, Washington. Declassified Nov. 22nd, 2000.
I will not detail the construction of the base, as you probably know it all. This is the result so far:
I
used a lot of synthetic and natural products to simulate
various vegetations, but if you pay attention, you will note that
I have not forgotten animal life...
And here a nice photo of my base being tried by a Jeep built by my friend Jackson Bradley during one of our club meetings:
At
this point, everything regarding the ACAV and the base was done, but I
still had to paint the crew. I postponed as I could for I am a lousy
figure painter. But when a modeling convention was announced in my area
I decided to use it a good reason to finish this diorama at last. I
used the commander, the driver and one of the soldiers from the Academy
kit. I think they are more 1/32 scale, as they are big guys. To make
things worse, I purchased a set of resin figures from Legend (US AFV
Crew) but the heads looked like 1/48, so small they were! I ended up
using the bodies from Legend and replaced the heads with Hornet items.
Of
course I will not teach you how to paint figures because I don't know
neither. I attended two or three worshops with master figure painters
in the past and that's all I had under my belt. Anyway, my first step
was to airbrush all skin areas with a flesh base color, and then
hit again with a lighter tone with the airbrush positioned where I
wanted the light source. It worked better that what I would get with a
paintbrush:
Next,
my karma, my nemesis: painting faces. I hate it... I did my best and if
something, the experience served me to decide to go back to oils for
painting faces. The photo below shows my meager efforts. I formulated a
whole context asserting that diorama figures are completely different
than busts and standalone figures. That's my excuse from now on. The
commander and the driver were painted with acrylics while the others
were painted with oils over an acrylics base color. I finished the
driver to test which Vallejo colors I wanted to use, as almost nothing
of the driver will be visible. Just don't laugh:
In
order to give the base a different touch, I prepared some fake campaign
ribbons by wrapping a small rectangle of plastic with Easter egg
stripes and securing with CA glue. The stripes would give the textures
I was after. Then it was just a matter of masking and painting the
various colors. They will be fixed on a reserved area of the base
afterwards. And yes, I did my homework and studied what would be a
plausible set of ribbons for the Vietnam campaign:
The
next important step was to clean, paint and finish all the small
details that would go with the figures. For that I used a mixed set of
accessories, mostly composed by leftover plastic parts plus a few resin
items from Legend. Whenever they were outnumbered, I casted copies of
them in resin, even if they would not go ultimately used in the
diorama, these are useful things to keep around for other projects as
well.
Vietnam combat field accessories varied, with many
standard items dating from WWII, others from Korean War and some
other modern. Well, let's start by the ones covered in olive/field
drab canvas... The M1956 field pack, aka 'butt' pack was the largest
troop carrying item that I painted for this diorama. Since they would
be seated on the top of the ACAV, some of the packs would be probably
end inside the vehicle. First aid kit pouches and grenede carriers were
also painted. I tried to vary the tones but my photos failed miserably
to capture it... Anyway, I used brown drabs and olive drabs, and added
shadows and highlights pretty much like what we do with figures. I also
finished canteens and ammunition pouches in the same way.
Luckly,
I had an old Hudson & Allen decal sheet with the 'US' letters in
several sizes to be used in standard accessories, and they worked like
a charm:
Moving
on to more explosive things, I painted and finished three .45 cal
pistols in two different holsters. Three types of grenedas were
prepared: M-185 smoke grenedes from the Legend figure set (even though
their sizes differ considerably from the ones I scratchbuilt before),
the standard M-26A1 fragmentation grenedes and a couple of M-59
'baseball' grenedes which were not very well molded, so I didn't know
exactly which I would end up using and where:
As
for the typical Vietnam weaponry, three M-16 were initially finished. I
think they also came from the Legend kit. An interesting Remington 870
shotgun was also included, but the barrel was hopelessly bent. I
replaced it with syringe needle tubing. Two other items from the spare
box or donated by friends were the M-79 grenede launcher and the M-72
66 mm LAW (light anti-tank weapon). My friend Jackson Bradley donated a
Type 56 gun, the Chinese copy of the celebrated AK-47. The difference
is a foldable bayonet (not installed in the photo below yet) - thanks
dude! Some of these weapons would still receive the straps.
To
round off things here, a Marine machete, a K-bar utility knife and a
pair of standard M-6 bayonets were also painted and finished to improve
the troops decoration.
With
the figures almost finished, I had to paint their helmets and a
bonnie-hat. I could not replicate an authentic 'Nam soldier without the
characteristic cigarret pack, insect repellent/gun lubricant bottles
and the infamous 'Ace of Spades' deck card... But where to find bottles
of repellent in 1/35 scale? I ended up scratchbuilding it.
I carved the typical shape, turned the caps in my micro lathe, glued to the body and reproduced them in resin.
After painting and finishing them, they really look nice:
The
figures had their uniforms painted according to photos I found in books
and on the internet. Vietnam troops usually were quite monotonic
regarding their uniforms, but if you look closely, you will see the
greens ranging from bright green to brown drab. However, I reasoned it
would look strange to have each troop wearing uniforms too different in
color. My option would be to make one or two troops in different
colors, but not much, just to represent more or less usage. The same
holds for helmets and accessories. Also, some items were left overs
from WWII, so it would be natural to have them in a olive drab.
I
am no figure painter, but when it comes to dioramas, you have to manage
figures somehow. It doesn't matter if you paint them yourself or if you
ask a friend to paint them, but you will need figures for your dioramas
sooner of later. I am still learning, but with practice I started to
like my figures and even better, enjoy the process. Anyway, painting
figures is a mess: tonal variations, 1st light, 1st shadow, 2nd light,
dirt... my gosh. I did my best, and painted most greens in a couple of
nights.
I
think it was a credile job for a novice figure painter. .However,
painting the soda cans, wrist watch, boots and belts took me more time
than the uniforms. In te end, the heads with the helmets and
accessories, plus some touch-ups renderece an acceptable result:
The final steps were to scratchbuilt the headphones. The cable was simulated using a bulb filament...
And
then I had some good moments of fun deciding the exact position of each
troop. Previously, when I was still assembling the crew, I found a
natural place for each one and took some photos with my cel phone. That
helped me to put everything in place. Small adjustments were necessary,
which were obtained by tweaking an foot, an arm or a head.
The
installation of all the weapons also fought me for a while, but in the
end everything found its place. Needless to say, many items were left
out of the scene. I will use them in the next diorama.
Everything in place, drum roll:
I
probably will add a plaque containing the shield of 11th ACR.
Technically, this diorama depicts the movements of the 11th ACR in the
area of Loc Ninh, during the Battle of Binh Long Province, in1969.
And, of course, I played with photoshop as much as with the model itself: